Catherine Anne Claus

A large-scale and consequential game of substitution is playing out in kitchens worldwide as sustainable seafood advocates try to replace over-harvested fish like salmon and tuna with more abundant species. Such substitutions depend not only on the fishers and eaters who are often deemed responsible for turning the tide of overconsumption, but also on the creation of ‘conscious’ cooks adept at navigating these seafood substitutions. This ethnographic research, based in Tokyo Japan, seeks to understand the diverse ways that cooks and seafood advocates interpret, negotiate, and enact substitutions as they are increasingly attentive to environmental concerns. The research will result in a monograph and numerous conference presentations. This study will make a significant contribution to anthropological theorizations of substitutions, sustainability, and cooking practices.